Saturday, April 11, 2009

Historical Artistic Styles


Gothic


There's a new bright spot in the typically dark, gothic-tinged world of fashion designer Gareth Pugh (pictured above, at far right). The 26-year-old Londoner and Central Saint Martins graduate, who last year said that he had yet to sell a dress, has been awarded the ANDAM (Association Nationale pour le Developpement des Arts de la Mode) Paris International Fashion Award. Founded in 1989 and supported by such corporate sponsors as Galeries Lafayette, Longchamp, and LVMH, the ANDAM award is now the largest international fashion award, with a prize of 150,000 euros (that's $236,312, at current exchange rates). Past winners include Martin Margiela (1989) and Viktor & Rolf (1994). According to WWD, Pugh will use the funds to help finance his first Paris runway show this fall. Pugh has previously shown his collections, in which we've detected an enduring Wizard of Oz flying monkey flair, at London Fashion Week. ANDAM will officially bestow the prize upon Pugh at a ceremony during Paris Fashion Week in October.

Wearable Art


Ex-Moloko singer and fashion pioneer Roisin Murphy attended the Christian Dior show yesterday in Paris wearing a design straight off the Pugh catwalk. Murphy is no stranger to Pugh's designs, wearing one on the cover of her single 'Overpowered'. The white space-age design is probably one of the more wearable creations by the young designer who has been known to use human hair and fake stuffed rats as applique on his items.

Rococo style




According to Milan Fashion week, a show is very chic and an timeless elegance . The "kitsch rock" tuch of Moschino is not very far : a big chignon position on the ahead of the head, the tee shirts with messages "Verba volant" and the major silver-link necklace ...Some "rococo" details revealed itself during the show : satin bow silk,baroque draws,fringes at the roudabout way of a shoulder. It's fabulous.

Art Nouveau


The Art Gallery Comes Alive
Art Nouveau motifs at Prada. Rothko hues at Marni. Pollock-y splashes at Dolce & Gabbana. For spring 2007, designers borrowed from modern art for inspiration.

Abstract Art Fashion


The arty trend ,where fashion fuses with abstract art, was especially outstanding on the runways this year. Designers took their inspiration from artists and illustrators, employing a range of techniques from abstract expressionism to ink and watercolour, and from thick impasto to bold brushstrokes. In spring 08, Prada collaborated with James Jean to design an ethereal collection of faery-printed it bags and clothes, while pop artist Richard Prince added a dose of bright colour to the LV monogram bags. Furthermore, the vibrant hand-painted smears inspired by abstract expressionist Jackson Pollock gave the gorgeous tulle Dolce & Gabbana gowns an arty glamour.

Surrealism

Surreal Apparel

Inspired by the Dali exhibit at New York's MoMA, Fashion goes phantasmic!

Jacket, $1,350, and skirt, $655, Comme des Garçons. 212-604-9200. Watch, price upon request, Cartier.Baccarat. baccarat.com. 800-CARTIER. Vase,

Saturday, April 4, 2009

The Genealogy of Neckwear


20th century and present

Fashionable neckties of the 20th century varied tremendously in length, width, and choice of pattern. For example, skinny neckties, stripes and foulards were perennial favorites, while during some decades, such as the 1940s and 1960s, the favored ties were wide and often decorated with flamboyant floral or geometric patterns. Ties today are commonly worn without clasps, pins, or tacks.

1800: the Jabot

The Jabot, a falling ruffle, especially of lace, worn at the neck by women and wen. This style tie is not so much a tie, but more a collar, or bib, in varying styles, worn over a blouse or shirt. Jabots became very popular in the 1800s.

1860-1920:The Ascot




The ascot, a broad scarf or necktie worn looped under the chin so the ends are laid flat, one across the other. The modern ascot tie consists of several pleats in the neckband, and two wide flaps of equal width, normally coming to a point at the ends. There is also a similar style of tie known as the ascot scarf, which gained popularity in the 1960s. This was a square scarf rather than tie, loosely tied around the neck, which is still worn today by US military candidates.


The 19th Century


The modern necktie developed in the mid-19th century. At the time, it was called the “four in hand,” because the knot echoed the knotting of reigns in horseback riding. The “four in hand” was one of many neckwear options during this period. Also popular were the ascot, the bowtie, and the stock. These styles represent a considerable change from the cravat.








1720-1800 : The Cravat


A
A cravat refer to any necktie, modern or otherwise. It's also refer to a cloth often made of, or trimmed in lace, worn about the neck by men, especially in the 17th century.

In the 1800s cravats hit the zenith of popularity. With a multitude of complicated ways of pleating and knotting. It was said that the tie of a mans cravat announced his social standing, and was in fact a letter of introduction to the world.